After incorporating a moisturizer and cleaning regimen, the next step in building a daily skin routine is the use of a toner. This is often missing in a skin care routine but it can really make noticeable changes to the skin. I like to think of it as the last little clean before putting on my daily products.
But as always let’s start at the beginning…..
What is a toner?
Toner is a liquid applied to the face usually to decrease oiliness, diminish the appearance of pores, hydrate or sooth the skin. I do have to say that there is not really any evidence that I could find that specific toners over all improve the skin in any way but given the HUGE category of toners and the many ingredients they used I am not really surprised. So I will focus on common ingredients found in toners and the benefits that they may have. This is by no means an exhaustive list but will cover the majority of toners.
Types of toners
Alcohol-based toners:
Many facial toners will contain alcohol of various kinds. The idea is that alcohol is a great degreaser and in combination with soap is very good at removing surface oils which may lead to acne. However this is also a bad thing as topical alcohol dries the skin by removing the oil deeper in the skin that is used as a barrier. Additionally there is a study that shows that after 2 hours skin oil returns to regular levels. So basically avoid toners with alcohol.
Oil-containing toners:
Some will contain plant oils, which are thought to work as topical antifungal or antibacterial. Some really are just there to smell good, which is ok by me. If it makes you happy you should do it. Be award though that many essential oils and even Vitamin E if used for a prolonged time commonly can cause skin rashes in some people. Just keep that in mind if you use one of these and you start to develop a rash it may be from one of these ingredients.
Tea tree oil gets special mention.
Tea tree oil is from the Melaleuca alternifolia plant and is one of the most popular oils found in facial toners. While there are lots of benefits claimed with tea tree oil, it is one of the few that actually has studies showing improvements in acne with use, likely from the antimicrobial properties. Too long to go into how that works but if you feel like nerding out like me you can read about it below.
Acid-based toners:
This is my personal favorite and if you are curious I will refer you to my previous post on acid peels. Acid toners are weak, low-concentrated acids that can be used daily that, basically, gently burn off a superficial layer of the dead layer of skin. Think of it as a gentle chemical exfoliator. The idea is that removing the dull outer layers of skin improves skin tone to make skin “more glowing”. An additional benefit is acids, that are lipophilic (meaning they dissolve into lipids or oils), such as salicylic acid, can also help with unclogging pores, removing black heads, and improving acne.
*Witch-Hazel*
I get asked about witch-hazel frequently and, well, your grandmother was right after all. Witch-Hazel contains gallic acid, which is a naturally occurring lipophilic acid similar to salicylic acid that improves clogged pores and acne. But be aware that many of the formulations contain alcohols, so just be sure to read the ingredients.
Not all skin types will tolerate acid toners daily as some will experience itching, redness, or even a gentle skin peel. With repeated use some of these symptoms may improve but every other day or every third day might be right for you. Also if one does not work for you trying a different acid or lower concentration may help.
What I use: The Ordinary Glycolic Acid 7% Toning solution (Review to come)
Recap:
- Toners: there are many kinds. Read your ingredients.
- Stay AWAY from topical alcohol toners. They are a no no and you don’t like them.
- Oil-containing toners, especially essential oils, can cause rashes and are only really there to smell good. Tea tree oil actually works, though.
- Acid toners work, but might not be for everyone.
Additional Reading:
New Perspectives on the Efficacy of Gallic Acid in Cosmetics & Nanocosmeceuticals
Tea tree oil gel for mild to moderate acne; a 12 week uncontrolled, open-label phase II pilot study.
Melaleuca alternifolia (Tea Tree) Oil: a Review of Antimicrobial and Other Medicinal Properties